Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Life is Hakuna Matata on Zanzibar

The second you step off the plane onto the sands of Zanzibar you know you have found a slice of paradise. The salty air and gentle breeze instantly whisper to you the island mantra: "Hakuna Matata" ( Swahili for "no problem") reminding you to relax and enjoy all that awaits.


Arriving from Dar es Salaam, Tanzania's Capitol, on a twin engine 12 seater prop plane, I was ready for my island break. Although Zanzibar is only a 20 minute flight or 1 hour ferry ride from Dar it became clear in the 15km drive from the airport to Stone Town, the largest town on the island, that Zanzibar is a world away from the hustle of Mainland East Africa. The narrow streets and ancient buildings speak of a place with a deep history, rich traditions and a time system that moves slow. 

First stop Stone Town. The largest town on the island of Unguga (aka "Spice Island)", Stone Town used to be a major spice and slave trade center. Due to Arab influence and the recent funding from Aga Khan, Stone Town is now a culinary destintion. Arriving late in the evening and with an empty stomach a stop at the Forodhani Gardens, Zanzibar's nightly outdoor street food market, was a must. Packed full of the most elaborate food stands, this park is competing hard for best street food in the world award. Every night starting at dusk this park fills up with food stands that offer up delectibles such as the Zanzibar pizza ($3), kebabs and coconut bread ($2), mango with pili pili (20cents) and glasses of freshly squeezed sugar cane juice to wash it all down.

Mr Nutella
Beyond the food of stone town, this city is a great place to soak up history. Visitors can tour the old slave market, prison island (a short boat ride away), or go on a spice tour and learn about Zanzibar's most precious resources: cloves and vanilla.

After a hot day of walking around Stone Town it was time to hit the white sandy beaches that make this place world famous. Although one cannot really go wrong with any of the beaches on Zanzibar, one must decide what they are looking for because each area offers something slightly unique. Want to kite surf? Head to Paje. Want high end, all-inclusive resorts? Head to Jambiani. Want a good party and beaches that don't recede with the tide? Head to Nangwi.

Wanting to relax on the best beaches by day and party by night (while still watching the wallet) the beaches at Nungwi, and more specifically Kendwa, seem like the best bet. A 1 hour dulla dulla ride ($2) away from Stone Town, Kendwa turned to be just the paradise I was looking for. The tropical blue waters and soft white sand mixed with comfortable beach loungers and cold drinks made for a week of pure unadulterated laziness. ($15 hour long massages helped tremendously). If one wanted a break from their beach chair Zanzibar Watersports, operated by adventure aficionado Chris, was steps away to hook you up with snorkeling and diving trips to Mnemba atoll, kite surfing, deep sea fishing and much more.



Although one could spend a lifetime on Zanzibar, after 6 days it was time to pass on my now imprinted beach chair to another mzungu in need of a beach break...but only after I suck down one last glass of sugar cane juice. 

Tuesday, July 15, 2014

From Goma to Nyungwe National Park

Lake Kivu is one of the worlds most volcanically active lakes experiencing limnic eruptions on a regular basis. Situated between the Democratic Republic of Congo and Rwanda, this lake is of great economic importance for the region and is now a center for methane extraction.


Beyond its economic value, Lake Kivu is beautiful. It's waters are a brilliant blue and it's shoreline is a mix of towering mountains, old lava fields and white sandy beaches. Although most people spend their time relaxing on the shores in Gyseni, Rwanda, it is a lake that is worth exploring if you have the time. 

From Goma, DRC speed boats travel twice daily across this expansive lake stopping at a couple of the islands (where you can get off and stay over) before docking at the southern tip of the lake in Bukavu, DRC ($50). 

Wanting to get to Nyungwe National Park, located in southern Rwanda, as scenically and efficiently as possible traveling by boat seemed like the best option. Taking 2.5-3 hours (in comparison to 9 by bus) this boat sped across the calm waters of Kivu and allowed one to enjoy the beauty of it all. 


Arriving at Bukavu, the bustling port city located in south Kivu, it was then a 15 minute taxi ride, a chaotic border stop, and 5 minute walk to the border at Chanegugu, Rwanda, a land so distant and exotic in comparison to the dizzying streets of Bukavu and Goma.


After a seemless crossing in Rwanda one can either take a bus (45-1 hour) or hire a taxi (30 mins, $40) to take you into one of the most biologically diverse pieces of land on the planet: Nyungwe NP. Home to 275 bird species and numerous primates including chimpanzees and golden monkeys, this park is breathtaking. Ranked the #1 place to visit in 2014 by National Geographic, it is definitely a spot worth exploring, if only to  walk across the 40 meter high canopy bridge to get a birds eye view of the expansive forest.


Practical information on boating across Lake Kivu:

1. Boats across the lake depart from Goma, Congo. Unfortunately no boats leave from Rwanda.
2.You are allowed 10 kilos. If you are over you will have to pay a small amount per extra kilo.
3. Sandwich and drink are provided with your ticket. 

Practical information for Nyungwe NP:

1. There is NO ATM so take out cash in Chanegugu. 
2. The ranger station at Gisakura allows you to book hikes using your credit card. 
3. Accomodations are limited. There are a couple of very high end lodges and very few low end. Camping is an option but just come prepared with warm clothes and food. 
4. Motorbikes are a great and cheap way to move about the park if you do not have a car. From one ranger station to the other it is 5000 ($8) RF, in comparison to the $100 they charge for car hire. 

Friday, July 4, 2014

Kwibuka: 20 years after the genocide

"If you knew me and you really knew yourself then you would not have killed me" -Felicien Ntagengwa


Kwibuka: Remember. Unite. Renew. That is the motto of Rwanda as it heals from the genocide that ended the lives of 1 million men, women, and children and destroyed a country 20 years ago. This July 4 Rwandans will come together to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the end of the genocide. 

Rwanda has made it clear that they will never again be a bystander to genocide. Besides national days of rememberance and celebration, Rwanda has made eduction as means of healing and renewing a priority. As a part of this process memorials of the horrific event that peaked in April of 1994 have been built all across the country. The largest of the memorials is located in Kigali, Rwanda's capitol. Pearched on one of the cities hills, this memorial walks you through the history before, during and after the genocide and is also the resting place of close to 300,000 people who were killed during this time.

Words cannot fully express the emotions that one experiences here. As I walked through the museum and burial grounds I was accompanied by close to one hundred Rwandan secondary school children. As we listened and read through the history together I watched these students hold each other and comfort their wailing peers. As an outsider I have never felt so helpless and completely ashamed of humanity. The lack of international aid is inexcusable and even though I was a child at the time you can only feel a heavy weight of responsibility. The memorial, funded by James and Stephen Smith of the Aegis Trust, is beautifully designed and does a very effective job at pulling on your heart strings and reminding people that regardless of race, ethnicity, or nationality we hold a collective reponsibility to each other to never let events like this happen again.

Kigali Genocide Memorial is free. Audio tours of the museum and grounds are $15. Open daily from 8am-5pm (last admission is at 4pm).

Wednesday, July 2, 2014

Virunga

The Virunga mountain range spans 1.9 million acres (7,800 square km) and 3 countries: Uganda, Rwanda, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC). It is also one of the most biologically diverse areas on Earth and is home to approximately 800 of the last surviving mountain gorillas. 

Founded in 1925, Virunga National Park (originally Prince Albert National Park) is located on the eastern edge of the DRC and was the first national park on the continent of Africa. A revolutionary idea at the time, this park led the way to conserving some of Africa's most valuable land. Now almost 90 years later, this park is at risk: people's desires for oil and other minerals (specifically, tantalum) threaten the concept of conservation and protection. 


In the last three years Virunga National Park has been the epicenter of civil conflict and closed its doors to tourism in 2011 due to the increased violence and conflict in the area. Fortunately, the war has since ceased, allowing Virunga to reopen to tourists this past January.

There are only a few places in the world to see mountain gorillas: Bwindi NP in Uganda, Volcan NP in Rwanda, and Virunga NP in the DRC.  When the time came to make a decision, overcome my fears of civil unrest and lack of security; I chose to give my money to Virunga, Africa's most at-risk national park

The drive from Goma, the closest city to the park, to the park headquarters at Rumangabo takes 1.5 hours and winds through UN military bases, open fields that used to be home to over 1 million Rwandan refugees, and lush jungles. Upon arriving at the only accommodation in the park, Mikeno Lodge, you instantly feel like you are in a distant land far from the chaos of Goma and the rebuilding efforts taking place in eastern Congo. Virunga is a land of extreme beauty. From the wide open plains to the towering volcanos, it is easy to understand why so much wildlife resides here and why Emmanual De Merode and his ICCN rangers risk their lives daily in order to protect it. In the last 10 years, 140 rangers have lost their lives in the fight against poachers, rebel groups, and large international companies that are illegally exploring for oil. 


Trekking mountain gorillas in the wild is a process very different from other African game drives. Due to both the gorillas' natural habitat and their susceptibility to human diseases, gorilla viewing is highly regulated and protected. All visitors must hold a permit ($465 at Virunga) and are limited to one hour of viewing time once the family has been spotted. [Note: Virunga is the only park that requires masks and has been lobbying the other parks to follow suit due to the death of one gorilla last year from a human virus.]

Leaving at 6:30am escorted by one of Virunga's dedicated rangers, we made our way towards Bukima camp, the launching point for our trek. The drive took roughly 1.5 hours on one of the most atrocious roads on the planet. After our brains and bodies had been sufficiently jostled we arrived at Bukima for our debriefing and long awaited trek. 

Winding through intense jungle we literally hacked our way through thick vines in search of the Nyakamwe family. The excitement and nervousness of seeing such large animals in the wild intensified with each step. After an hour of hiking we met up with the trackers who brought us 20 minutes further up the mountain side to witness one of the most spectacular sites on earth: mountain gorillas in the wild. 


The Nyakamwe family is comprised of 2 babies, 3 silverbacks and 4 females. As we sat less then a meter away from these great animals we were greeted with grunts, playful grabs, and looks of complete disinterest. The babies swung from vines and wrestled in the bush as the others lazed about. The sheer size of the males was both intimidating and awe-inspiring. One look into these great apes eyes and you are both in love and in fear of getting ripped to shreds. The surge of thoughts and emotions while sitting amongst them is beyond comprehension. In one simple word, the experience was magnifique (and worth every penny). 


Need another reason to visit Virunga? This park is also home to the only gorilla orphanage in the world. Thanks to Andre, the gorilla whisperer, and the other rangers, Virunga has rescued 5 gorillas who were orphaned due to the civil conflict. The gorillas are outside from 9-3 daily. No entrance fee. Just sit and watch at your leisure from one of the many view points. The gorillas love to show off so you are guaranteed a good time. 






Tuesday, July 1, 2014

Into the Congo

A country that has been war torn for decades, the Congo seems like a rather daunting place to vacation much less visit. When you tell people you are going to the Congo they often give you a confused and rather bewildered look. "The Congo?! Why would you want to go there?" they all ask. 


Although I fully recognize people's fears and confusion about this place called the Congo; not only has it been referred to as the "heart of darkness" since Joseph Conrad's famous book was published in 1899 but it has also been a place rife with tribal conflict, genocide, and civil war for the last 20 years. However, amidst chaos, violence, and lack of leadership, the Congo lives on. A country spanning 905,600 square miles (2345 sq km) with over 66 million people still stands, and quite proudly I must say. 

Entering the eastern center of Goma in the province of North Kivu from the Rwandan border, it is clear that times have been tough. The roads, left over from colonial rule, are worn to bits, buildings are ramshackled (partly due to the volcanic eruption that destroyed part of the town in 2002), and there are more UN trucks on the road then regular vehicles. 


Goma is a town full of ex-pats and aid workers and, therefore, a bizzare mix of extreme poverty and highly educated people. Ask any humanitarian worker and they will tell you that Goma is like summer camp and anonymity does not exist. 

Spending only a short bit of time in Goma it is clear that in this dusty city life is divided: there are the places for those that have and a lack thereof for those that have not. 


However, life still carries on here and with full energy. Boda Bodas move from place to place; local Lingala music blasts from store fronts; women and men move about their daily lives dressed in the most colorful clothing I have ever seen. 


The word resilient seems like a giant understatement for the Congolese people. Whether it be a gathering at the local water pump or watching football on tv, the Congolese are ever smiling. They endure, and in ways that not many on this earth could match. 

Traveling into Eastern Democratic Republic of Congo?

1. Visas: tourist visas are now available. It is recommended that you get your visa in advance in your home country. It will save you many hours of hassle. A single entry, 1-month VISA is $115 for U.S. citizens. A 3-day tourist visa to Goma and Virunga is available at the boarder for $100. Invitation letters are necessary for both visas and can be obtained from the ICCN office (if you are going to one of the parks) or a local tour agency.

2. Border crossing: check border crossing times. Due to continued conflict, the open crossing times continuously vary. 

3. Precautions: Most aid workers in Goma are on strict curfew. Although at the time of the writing it was more lenient (12 am), it is advised to anyone staying in Goma to follow suit. Although most incidences of violence are not directed at foreigners, it is wise to follow the same precautions.

4. Police and FDRC: no pictures, unless you want to see yourself inside one of the worlds most crowded and unsafe jails. 


Eating your way through Uganda

Throw a seed anywhere in Uganda and it will grow. The soil, a deep rusty red color, is some of the most fertile soil in the world. From bananas to pineapple food is abundant here, which makes it one of the best culinary destinations in East Africa. Loving to eat and try new things I made this trip back to Uganda all about food. From the 10,000 USH ($4) goat stew to the 500 USH (20 cents) chapati, here is how you, too, can eat your way through Uganda.


Rolex: the Ugandan take on the burrito. This very popular and amazingly priced (1000 USH) chapati and egg roll up will surely satisfy any hungry stomach. Add some avocado, tomato and onion and you've got yourself one hell of a meal.

Ground Nut Sauce: Uganda's national sauce. A simple concoction of ground peanuts, water, salt, and a touch of sugar, this sauce leaves your mouth salivating for more. Eat it as a stew with chicken or on the side with rice, but be warned, this is as calorie rich as it tastes. 

Kebabs: Kebabs are everywhere in Uganda. Whether you are walking in town or on a 10 hour bus ride, kebabs can easily be found. From chicken livers and necks to cow udder and ribs to illegal baboon meat, these tasty sticks are a great option for those who want a quick snack or a cheap, meat lovers meal. Price should be around 500 USH.

Roasted grass hoppers: A Ugandan delicacy for sure, these creatures are delicately roasted to insure the perfect crunch and then mixed with onions and other seasonings. Remember that looks can be deceiving so get yourself a cone full and give these fried up morsels a try. I promise you that you will be asking for more. 


Roasted Ground Nuts: Some of the best peanuts in the world come from here. Perfectly roasted deliciousness all for under 20 cents. It's a no brainer.



Matoke: The mashed potatoes of Uganda. Made by boiling plantains or green bananas, matoke is a staple food here. The markets in Uganda are filled with plantains ready to be served up as a side to chicken, goat, or fish. 


Crawfish with avacado: a delicacy from around Lake Bunyonyoni, this dish is lip smacking delicious. The dish consists of crawfish that are cooked in a spicy tomato-mayonnaise sauce and then served up with the freshest avacado around. If you find yourself lounging on the shores of Lake Bunyonyoni this is a must have meal.

Chapati: Indian style flat bread that is served with just about everything. From a main at breakfast to a side dish, chapati is what Ugandans run on. 

What to drink with all of this amazingness? Well, a Nile Special of course. 




Sunday, June 22, 2014

Into thin air.

It's 6:23!" I shouted at my travel partner and flew out of bed. "Our taxi comes in 7 minutes. Damn alarm never went off." In a flurry of clothes and toiletries we changed and shoveled our belongings into our overly full packs just in time for our taxi to arrive and take us to our next leg of the journey: Uganda. 

Damn, we're good. We said as we relished in the fact that not only did we successfully get ourselves out the door on time but that there was no "jam" on the way to Jomo Kenyatta airport. 

It all seemed too good and in fact it was. I should have known from my past experiences that nothing runs this smoothly in Kenya. However, I being overly optimistic thought nothing of the lack of queue at the Air Uganda counter upon our arrival. What I did not expect was the complete disappearance of Air Uganda overnight. And yet, here we were standing at the counter being told by two grounds crew that Air Uganda stopped service. "Did they not email you?" the woman at the counter asked. Clearly not, ma'am by the fact that I am standing here at 7:00 am wanting to check in. 

"Well, why don't you take a seat over there," she said pointing to the other stranded passengers. "The representative is on her way to help you."

"When will they be here?" 

"I'm not sure. We were told she is on her way."

And so at the mercy of the woman "on her way" we sat and waited, hoping we too would not disappear into thin air. 
 
Surving at Jomo Kenyatta airport continued:

1. Nairobi Java house between terminal 1 & 2 Tuskers, tea, and brownies are decently priced and will give you the patience necessary to deal with the lack of efficiency. 

Saturday, June 21, 2014

Tusker Time

"Somewhere in the world it's Tusker Time", I told my friend Wandeto as we sat down for a late lunch of ugali, fried goat, and chapati. Although we usually wait a few more hours into the day to sit back, relax, and pop open one of Kenya's famous Tusker beers, today we decided that after our long walk in Nairobi National park that Tusker time would come early.

Even though Kenya received independence from Great Britain in 1963 it is still a place that is rich in many British cultural practices. Tea is still served at 10 and 4, they drive on the left side of the street, use British electrical plugs, and speak with a British English accent. However in the 51 years since independence Kenya has been able to reassert itself and create new traditions that are entirely theirs. One of those is Tusker Time, the Kenyan twist on high tea. It's an easy and quiet lovely early evening tradition that requires very little--cold Tusker beers and perhaps a bag of ground nuts (peanuts).

So whether you are navigating the "jams" of Nairobi, searching for the big 5 in the Masaai Mara, or lounging on the beaches in Lamu, if you find yourself in Kenya this is a tradition that should be honored and observed. 


Kenya's finest

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Bastimentos: a little slice of paradise



Rene aka "Cheno" is a slender 5'9" Bastimentos native. He has 4 siblings and "so many cousins" that he cannot even keep track of them anymore. Ask anyone, and not only do they know him, but they will probably tell you exactly how they are related. Although he has not been directly elected, Cheno is the mayor of Basti. 

Bombe, aka "big Papi" (due to his love of the Boston Red Sox) is Rene's best friend. Hovering at 5'7" and an easy 250 lbs, Bombe is a man with a warm smile and a mother that can cook up a mean piece of fish. Often hanging off his porch on the main strip, Bombe keeps track of the on goings in town and can help you find cold beers and Abuelo (Panamanian rum) after a long day at the beach.

And then there is Roberto. A dashing young man who "cannot find a wife because all these women here are my cousins", Roberto is one of the islands greatest resources. Not only does his mother operate one of the restaurants in Old Bank but he is one of the islands primary water taxi drivers. From Bocas town to Red Frog to Bibi's on Isla Carenero, Roberto is the man that will get you there and sometimes even with a beverage in hand. 

Although only 3 people, these are the people that make Bocas del Toro, and more specifically, Isla Bastimentos a little slice of heaven. Bastimentos, the largest of the islands in the archipelago, is a place to spend a day, a week, or even a lifetime. It's a place of smiles and loud cackles, the freshest fish and sweetest coconut bread. It's a place of world class surf and cold Panama beers. It is a place where reggaeton pours out onto the one sidewalk in town and time moves slow.

Although the guide books originally took me to Isla Colon, the more populated island in the Bocas del Toro archipelago, I knew I wanted a place where the beaches are practically empty, the surf is top notch, and where the bars are filled with locals and not the hoards of young backpackers from around the world. And so Bastimentos was exactly the island getaway I was searching for. 

Things to do in Bocas del Toro (in no particular order):

1. Hike to Red Frog beach, grab a beer, and then continue on to Pollo beach, Bocas's best kept secret. The hike to Pollo takes about 1.5-2 hours depending on speed and winds through the jungle and along the beaches. It's a beautiful walk and the great thing is that you can water taxi back from Red Frog (Pollo is 25 mins past Red Frog).

2. Day boat tour to Cayo Zapatilla, dolphin cove and Cayo coral. The definition of paradise comes from Cayo Zapatilla so pack so cervezas and a mask and snorkel and enjoy as much of it as you can. $25 per person.

3. Spend an evening in Bocas Town eating ceviche at the fish shop at the end of the island. This stuff is so good that it sells out so make sure you get there early. 

4. Surf at one of the many prime surf spots on the island. Surf lessons and boards can be rented at Bibi's on Isla Carenero. 

5. Eat at firefly on Bastimentos. Amazing food and drink--Period. Reservations necessary. 

6. Hike to the coffee shop on the hill on Bastimentos island and get the brownie. You won't regret this amazing (and fully organic) delectable. The coffee is also top notch. 

Travel practicalities:

1. If you can, fly. $100 each way on air panama. Flight is 45 minutes from Panama City and is worth every penny. 

2. Boat/bus. You can take a boat to/from Almirante and then bus to Panama City. Their is one direct bus to/from each day that takes 10 hours. Although the cost of $25 is significantly cheaper I would argue that your time is much better spent on the beach. If you do go by bus bring a blanket because they blast the AC. Ear plugs also will help tune out the constant stream of bachata music and babies crying. 

Friday, April 18, 2014

A man, a plan, a canal, Panamá!

Panama City, Panama is a town full of American expats, marine industry workers and Panamanians hoping to make a buck. Located at the junction where the Panama Canal meets the Pacific, this town has been an epicenter of trade for hundreds of years.

A city founded in 1519, Panama City is a place where old meets young, tradition meets modernity and plato typico meets Taco Bell. 

Wanting to experience the older side of Panama City we decided to stay in Casco Viejo, Panama's old quarter (designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 1997). Built in 1673, this area is technically the new city of Pananma after the original city was burnt down by Henry Morgan and his band of pirates in 1671. The streets are narrow with the buildings an eclectic mix of old, new and ramshackled. This small neighborhood, located on the shores of the Pacific, is home to the Presidential palace, the original canal museum, catherdrals and many beautiful plazas, including Plaza del Francia, that overlooks the Pacific. This area is also home to many great cafes, restaurants, and rooftop bars, along with some swanky boutique hotel options.


Casco Viejo at night
Coming from Panama's international airport our taxi driver dropped us off at Luna's Castle, one of Casco Viejo's budget hostel options. Hoping this place would give us the simple respite we needed for a cheap price, we booked it. However, after one look at our private, 3 bedroom room we opted for a different option. The room, comparable to a prison cell, had one flickering florescent light, no windows and no AC and layers upon layers of dirt on the wall. Could I have slept there? Sure. However, the thought of a sleepless night and the potential of bed bugs sent us off to another refugio--the Tantalo, a boutique hotel where each room is uniquely decorated and the beds are like sleeping on a cloud. 

After finding a place to lay our heads we then took to the ancient streets in search for food. A short walk from our hotel was Plaza Bolívar, where flocks of Panamanians and tourists alike were partaking in a lovely evening of eating and drinking under the trees. With a plethora of restaurants to choose from, we ended up going with Casa Blanca. One look at their menu and I knew our stomachs would be satisfied: plantanos with calamari, grouper with peppers and creole sauce, sea bass with beet purée. 

With satisfied stomachs and few glasses of sangria in our systems it was now time to hit the bar scene. Club Havana and Casa Nuratti's rooftop bar were a quick jaunt away and offered up local music and cheap Panamanian beers and cold drinks. 

The next morning we then headed to what Panama is most widely known for: the canal. A 15 minute, $10 taxi ride brought us to the Miraflores locks, the closest of the 3 sets of locks to Panama City. The 80 mile long and 10 mile wide canal, now operated by Panama, takes boats 8-10 hours to travel through and is Panama's greatest source of revenue.Those wanting to travel through the locks can easily book a day tour for around $120. Otherwise for $15 you can hang out on the overlook of Miraflores and wander through their well put together museum that includes a 30 minute video on the making of the Panama Canal. 


Miraflores Locks
After an hour of watching the boats navigate through canal it was time to escape the heat and humidity and find refuge some where a little cooler. From the canal we hopped back into a taxi and headed to Marcos Gelabert Airport to catch our Air Panama flight north to the archipelago of Bocas del Toro.

Traveling through Panama City? 

Wireless internet is every where. Sign up for a Wego account and you will be able connect all over the city--for free. 

Negotiate with your taxi drivers before you get into their car. They set the price and will hose you if you do not agree on a price before getting in. 

Saturday, March 29, 2014

Agave juice anyone?

For those of us living on the northern side of the Rio Grande, Mexico is known as the land of eternal splendor: unlimited sun, sand and agave juice. With its long list of serene beaches and energetic night life, Mexico is a place that thousands of gringos flock to each year. Whether or not one should go to Mexico is rarely the question, even with the recent increase in violence. Instead the questions is "where TO?" in the land of tropical splendor.

This time around I surpassed the college scene in Cancun and headed to the peace and serenity of the Baja. A quick jaunt away from the cold and snow in the Midwest, Cabo de San Lucas made an excellent getaway option.

Cabo de San Lucas is located at the very southern tip of the Baja de California. Originally a small fishing village, Cabo grew to be a popular vacation destination in the mid 1970s. Cabo San Lucas is the more popular place to stay of the two Cabos. With the plethora of beach accommodations, restaurants, and popular clubs, including the famous "Cabo Wabo" and widely known "Señor Frogs" chain, this town has something for everyone. 

For me, it had the perfect recipe for respite and relaxation. Staying at the Capella Pedregal I had to look no further than my beach chair for everything I needed. Opened in 2009, the Capella is one of 3 five star resorts in Cabo that goes above and beyond to ensure the comfort and happiness of each of their guests--Mexican s'mores on the beach? Check. Cucumber jalapeño margaritas? Check. The freshest sea bass ceviche around? Check. The Capella is also home to El Farallon, a cliff side, open-air restaurant that serves up the freshest seafood around. The views, ambiance and food create an evening for the books and so if you can swing it, this is a place to spend your hard earned dollars.

Overall, the Capella has definitely cornered the market on service and hospitality and has mixed up a recipe for relaxation to be reckoned with.

Although the resorts in and around Cabo make it very easy to never leave their gates, there are plenty of reasons to get out and explore the southern tip of the Baja. The Baja is a great place to enjoy whale watching (prime season is November-March), go deep sea fishing, and hike in the surrounding mountains. 



Saturday, January 11, 2014

In and around Bhopal

When one googles "Bhopal, India" images of beautiful lakes and Indian landscapes do not flash across your screen. Although its nickname is the City of Lakes and is one of India's  greenest cities, the first page on Google alerts you to a much darker past. And it is true, Bhopal, located in the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, has a grim recent past. 

30 years ago, on December 2nd, 1984, gas leaked from the Union Carbide plant, now owned by Dow Chemical, and spread across the city of Bhopal causing close to 600,000 injuries to date. This disaster, which was caused by a lack of regulation and oversight, is considered one of the worst industrial disasters on record and sadly the city and the victims of the tragedy are still fighting for justice 30 years later.

Even though Bhopal has a dark past, it is a beautiful and charming city that can lure any person in for a couple of days. From boat rides to shoreline promenades to hotels where you can sip a chai and watch the sun move across the water, this city is dominated, and rightfully so, by its lakes. Bhopal is the calm and tranquil Indian child in comparison to its brothers Mumbai, Calcutta and Delhi, and so it is a great place to come, eat and simply relax.

Besides lounging along the lakes, Bhopal has many interesting historical sites right outside of its city limits that make perfect day trips.  

Bhimbetka Caves:

Located 45 kilometers south of Bhopal, this UNESCO world heritage site is home to 15,000+ year old rock paintings. Discovered in 1957, these rock paintings show images of animals such as bison, tiger, rhinoceros, wild boar, elephants, as well as popular religious and ritual symbols. The rock shelters, which are nestled on a high rock outcropping are from various epochs of time, ranging from the Upper Palaeolithic, Mesolithic Age to the protohistoric, early historic and medieval periods. The most ancient scenes here believed to be commonly belonging to the Mesolithic Age. 

Whether or not rock paintings are your cup of tea, the walk between the shelters and the views from the top of the outcropping make this a worthwhile destination. 

Sanchi

On a hill overlooking the countryside of Madhya Pradesh, about 40 km from Bhopal, is the site of another UNESCO world heritage site: the Buddish monuments of Sanchi. Dating back to the 2nd and 1st centuries B.C., Sanchi is the oldest Buddhist sanctuary in existence and was a major Buddhist centre in India until the 12th century A.D. In order to fully take in and appreciate the various stupas and intricate carvings one needs at least a half day to wonder around this site. 

Please note that even though these sites are located close to Bhopal they both cannot be easily seen in one day.  Due to the chaos that is India's roads 45 kilometers (27 miles) can take close 2 hours.

Looking for a place to stay? Bhopal has plenty of great options. The Ivy Suits Guest House offers up amazing views, delicious food, and wonderful service. The owner Pramod gives up great advice on things to see and do and is incredibly accommodating. He is also well versed in conservation efforts around India and can give you great tips on spotting one of India's prized Bengal tigers. 


Thursday, January 2, 2014

Going on a [Tiger] Hunt...

It was 5:45am when I woke to a knock at my door. I groaned as I looked at the clock and saw the numbers flash across the screen. "5:45, really? It's so early. Come on tigers, can't you sleep in just a little." I crawled out of bed and opened the door of my immaculately decorated bungalow at Forsyth's Lodge. "Good morning, Miss. Your jeep will be leaving at 6:15", the young gentleman announced as he handed me my chai. 

The sky was barely stirring awake as I layered every piece of clothing I had on. You see I came to India thinking it was going to be hot. At least that is what I was told: "Prepare for the heat" all of my friends said as I packed for this trip. And now, on this early morning in December, I was freezing wishing I had brought my long underwear from Wisconsin.

At 6:25am the jeep arrived at the entrance of Satpura National Park located 210 kilometers away from Bhopal in the state of Madhya Pradesh. As we pulled up my excitement and confidence in finding one of India's mystical tigers had grown. Dawn was now showing its face as the five of us clambered onto the boat that would take us across the river and into the tigers den. "So Rishi, what is the likelihood that we are actually going to see a tiger today? Be honest. 25%? 75%? 100%?" I asked our eager, handsome young guide. "Well you see tigers are shy. Some days we see them, some days we don't." That wasn't the answer I had wanted to hear but regardless I was determined to find one.

River crossing at Satpura National Park
As the camp song, "going on a lion (tiger) hunt" repeated in my head I looked, listened, and watched the jungle for tiger activity. Every monkey call, bird chirp or sambar howl could mean a tiger is lurking close by. I was on high alert but with every minute that passed my confidence in seeing a tiger waned. As the sun moved high into the sky and our jeep made its way back to the entrance I knew my luck had run out. "Well, I guess no tigers today" I sighed. "On our next drive we'll get one--right?"

Elephant Safari
Although I never did get my tiger, my time in Satpura National Park was worth the trip. From elephant rides, to canoeing, to climbing to ancient cave paintings, there are plenty of activities for people of all ages within the park. Satpura is also the only park in India that allows visitors to walk within the jungle. Even though the king of the forest is the Bengal tiger, the park is home to a plethora of other animals, such as sloth bears, sambar, and flying squirrels, and so it is a place that deserves a few days. 

Main lodge at Forsyth's

Needing a place to stay? Lodging is restricted to outside of the park and is limited. I spent the entirety of my stay at Forsyth's Lodge and was highly impressed with the service. The staff is informative and welcoming and goes above and beyond to care for their guests. Other options include Rani Pani and Sunshine Jungle Lodge.